Old Nakba ruins from 1948/9 are all over the place in Israel, barely off the beaten track. I have known for years and years now about the expulsion of the Palestinian-Arab citizens of Ramle during the Israel War of Independence. But I wasn’t expecting to find the ruins of the old town just there, still preserved in rough shape. I would have thought that old Ramle would have been bulldozed and ruined a long time ago. I guess it says something about the neglect of official Israel to cover completely its tracks in the years right after the war. Or maybe just laziness. Or maybe it’s just not that easy to bury the remains of a place. At any rate, the the ruins of old Ramle are there right alongside the local market, one of the most interesting and charming little outdoor markets in the country. The first thing I stumbled across were the architectural shells buttressing the parking lot. On the other side of the market, the mosque is still intact. I’m not sure if it’s still in use. Also intact is the ruined dome of an old Ottoman public bathhouse alongside fragments of bits of the old city wall. The graveyard is outside the old town, not quite surrounded by modern Ramle, a struggling, economically working class town. “Palestine” is part of the unofficial memorial culture of “Israel.” Maybe from public consciousness, none of this is hidden, at least not physically from the public eye. “Palestine” is all out there in plain sight, open to anyone who wants to walk through it.